Banyuls, Bila-Haut, M. Chapoutier - 50cl 2021

This is a revelation for those who think sweet wines are all about cloying heaviness. It's more like a decadent summer pudding reimagined in a glass. Think blackberries bursting with sunshine, a touch of stewed cherry, and the most intriguing hint of cocoa - like a chocolate truffle snuck into the fruit bowl. It's all held together by a delightful freshness, a balancing act achieved thanks to Grenache, grown on impossibly steep terraces overlooking the Mediterranean. Fortified, yes, but with a deft touch, and aged for just eight months to retain that lively character. The tannins are as smooth as silk, and the finish lingers like a warm summer evening. All in all, a delightful little surprise.

This delicious sweet wine with an opulent feel is spot-on for a luscious ending - think blue cheese, a warm chocolate fondant, or a slice of Christmas-rich fruit cake.

Michel Chapoutier's reach extends into the sunny Roussillon, where Domaine de Bila-Haut nestles in Latour-de-France. This southern outpost benefits from Chapoutier's meticulous approach. Here, ancient vines and their low yields concentrating flavour in the grapes. Grenache, Syrah and Carignan bask in the sunshine, while north-facing slopes and cooling winds add a touch of elegance to the white blend. For reds, schist and gneiss soils give rise to structured, characterful wines that embody the spirit of the Roussillon. Chapoutier clearly has a knack for finding hidden gems, and Domaine de Bila-Haut shines as one of them.