In a nutshell: A fine, minerally Premier Cru white Burgundy from the village of Montagny.
The lowdown: The only village in the Côte Chalonnaise to be dedicated entirely to Chardonnay Montagny still produces one of those increasingly elusive things, the good value white Burgundy. Françoise Feuillat-Juillot has managed the whole domaine since 2002 (and owned it from 2004) and makes quality wines without compromise and uses sustainable agricultural methods in the vineyards. This 'Grappes d'Or' comes from several different premier cru parcels with some vines dating back to 1950 and is matured in a mix of large oak barrels and stainless steel. A fresh and racy wine with brilliant, vibrant acidity and minerally backbone. Subtle mineral and dried fruit aromas, a smooth mouthfeel with grapefruit and yellow fruit flavours and zesty citrus.
When to drink: Not your big oaky Chardonnay, this fresh and refined example is drinking wonderfully now and will keep for the next few years. Try with grilled sole or fillet of sea bass.
The owner of this excellent Côte Chalonnaise estate, Françoise Feuillat-Juillot, who, being the daughter of Michel Juillot a long standing and highly regarded winemaker in the village of Mercurey, grew up amongst the vines and barrels of her family domaine. After studying oenology she joined forces with grower Maurice Bertrand whose estate was situated in Montagny at the the southern end of the Côte Chalonnaise where Chardonnay is king. She continued to run the estate after Maurice's death in 2002 and was eventually able to take ownership a few years later. She now has 14 hectares of wonderfully sited, mainly old vines, spread amongst 13 different premier crus in the area. She practices a very strict and meticulous form of sustainable viticulture, works the soils mechanically and all grapes are picked by hand. This approach has certainy paid dividends because her wines are now regarded as some of the best of the appellation.