Ontañón Reserva, Rioja 2019

While Tempranillo from high-altitude old vines forms the backbone here, around 5% Graciano goes in as well, adding a nice perfumed lift and aromatic complexity. The obligatory, for a reserva, twenty-four months barrel ageing is spent in a mix of American and French oak giving it a traditional vanilla, spice and cedar character, but without dominating the dark plum and bramble. The result is a wine with real fullness and depth, balanced by fresh acidity and an intriguing balsamic crispness on the lengthy finish.

Drinking very well now with the structure to age for several more years; a classic match for roast lamb or slow-cooked lamb shoulder.

For one of Rioja's major bodegas, Ontañón continue to fly under the radar in the UK, where the market is dominated by better-known names and brands. They're based out in the east of the region near the village of Quel, a fair distance from Haro, where many of the famous bodegas cluster — which might have something to do with it.
The Pérez Cuevas family's connection to the land goes back over 80 years, with winemaking roots in Quel stretching back considerably further. Today they're one of the largest family vineyard owners in Spain, with over 800 hectares planted — a substantial operation by any measure.
Nevertheless, quality-wise they're right up there with the best, and their lack of profile can prove to be a benefit — to the customer at least — because it means their wines are often very good value compared to the big names, who have substantial marketing budgets to pay for.