Celeste Crianza, Ribera del Duero 2022

Celeste wines come from Pago del Cielo, the Torres family’s Ribera del Duero outpost high on the plateau, where, for a few decades now, they’ve been turning their hand to making the region’s famed bold, dark and concentrated reds. To get a feel for what Ribera del Duero is about, Celeste Crianza is an ideal place to start without having to break the bank. Twelve months in oak gives it depth, but it’s certainly on the sleeker side, with plenty of dark fruit, oak and grip, but not as hulking or heady as some. For a big, bold red, but not something that’ll blow you away, this is a pretty good effort.

Cracking with roast lamb, barbecued steak or slow-braised beef - the weight and spice work wonders with big flavours.

Widely considered Spain’s biggest producer of DO-quality wines, Torres have, since starting out in 1870, expanded all over Spain and across to Chile and California, but still consider Penedès in Catalonia as their home. You’ll see their wines everywhere, but quality has never been compromised on the altar of quantity – at whatever price level they’re a pretty reliable label. In addition their focus on sustainability is a genuine commitment and not just corporate window dressing – in 2019 they co-founded International Wineries for Climate Action with California’s Jackson Family Wines.